Exploratory Trip Through the St. Croix and Burntwood (or Brule) Rivers

The source for the text excerpt below is: Mason, Philip P. (ed.). 1993. Schoolcraft's Expedition to Lake Itasca. The Discovery of the Source of the Mississippi.  Michigan State University Press, East Lansing, MI.

As an introduction:

Henry Rowe Schoolcraft was a renowned explorer, scientist, writer, naturalist, and student of the lives and customs of North American Indians. In this volume, Schoolcraft describes his ascent from the Mississippi River up the St. Croix and Brule Rivers to Lake Superior in July and August of 1832.

Chapter 1 and the first part of Chapter 2 of Schoolcraft's journal describe the journey from the mouth of the St. Croix upstream to the junction of the Yellow River (near present day Danbury) where Schoolcraft was to join Ojibwe Chief Kabamappa. As he indicates, the low water level of the upper St. Croix River caused difficulties.  The section below starts with the trip above the junction of the Yellow River.

We were five hours and a half in going from Yellow River to the Forks of the St. Croix. The distance is probably not over thirteen miles. These data will show how slowly we proceeded, with every exertion, against the obstacles of a very low state of water. And at this spot we knew that we were to lose, at least, one half of the entire volume. The loss in indeed greater, for the Namakagon, or right hand fork, which we were here to leave, is decidedly the largest of the two.

The Namakagon Branch has its rise in a lake, which the Indians call Mattedhair [now called Namekagon] Lake, very near the source of the Mushkee or Mauvais [Bad] River of Lake Superior. Neither of these streams can, however, be ascended to their sources. There is a portage across the intervening grounds, interspersed with small lakes which is practicable for canoes and packages of goods, carried after the northwest manner. The Namakagon has another portage, at a lower point to Ottawa Lake, the source of one of the naviagable branches of the Chippewa River. This river, after running about one hundred and seventy miles, joins the northwest branch at the Forks of the St. Croix, and from this point, the joint volume, increased by a number of tributaries is carried on, to swell the mass of the Mississippi.

We found the Chief Kabamappa, with others, encamped at the Forks. They evinced the same feeling of welcome, and pleasure we had met from the Chippewas on the lower part of the stream. Kabamappa said that nothing had been very recently heard from the direction of Lac du Flambeau and the borders of the Sauc disturbances. He readily communicated many facts respecting the existing difficulties, and the means taken to enlist the Indians in a general war. He said that the confederacy, as it is, had been reported to consist of nine tribes, who he named. With respect to a permanent peace with the Sioux, he cordially approved it. He had, he observed, given much of his thoughts and his time to that object, and particularly so since our previous visit. It was, primarily, through the influence of this chief that a general peace-council had been held by the Sioux and Chippewas, during the fall of 1831 on the Snake River.

As to the state of the water his expression was, “iscutta! iscutta!” indicating an exhausted state. He added, that though we had encountered difficulties on the stream below, they would be multiplied on the branch we were about to ascend. Even within sight of his lodge, he pointed to the shallows, were it would be impossible to ascend without wading in the stream and carrying all the baggage. The river, he said, was uncommonly low for the season, and was daily getting lower. Under these circumstances, we had no time to lose. We employed the remainder of the day in going about seven miles, and encamped after dark at a place called Women’s Portage. Just before encamping, and when we were seeking a spot along the thick brushy shore, to debark at, Kabamappa suddenly appeared standing on the bow of his canoe, and pointing onwards, guided us to the spot of our encampment. Daylight had completely disappeared and it was barely possible, in a dark atmosphere, to discern contiguous objects. As the tall and gaunt form of the chief glided by, with his spear-pole elevated in the direction we were to go, it might have needed but little power of the imagination, to transform him into a spirit of supernatural power. Owing to the darkness we found it difficult to procure fire-wood for the night. It was sought with torches. The chief joined us at our evening meal. We were pleased with his urbanity.

A fog detained us at our encampment until after daylight, (1st August). We were enabled to proceed at five o’clock. Our first labor was the ascent of a rapid, our second, our third, and our fourth labors were also rapids. In short, rapid succeeded to rapid, and with such short intervals, that it would be impracticable from any notes preserved on the route, to speak of this part of the stream, in any other light than as a continued series of rapids. We often thought ourselves above them but we as often found, in the language of our canoemen, “encore un.” About two o’clock in the afternoon we came to still waters with sedgy shores, and at seven in the evening reached and landed at Kabamappa’s village [Whitefish Lake, now called Gordon Flowage]. The distance may be twenty-five miles above the Women’s Portage. We encamped there.

The village is situated on a part of the river called Namai Kowagon, or Sturgeon Dam. It occupies an eligible prairie bank, and exhibits in the style of the lodges and gardens, considerable industry and regard to comfort. It would seem to be no difficult effort to induce Indians, who had proceeded thus far in fixed industry, to labor on their lands more extensively and effectually. The lodges represent, on the ground plan, oblongs enclosed with strong elm bark, sustained on a frame work of saplings, tied on posts firmly set in the ground. They have a moveable piece or door, at each end, and an opening in the centre of the lodge, in the place of a chimney. Corn and potatoe fields, covered the surrounding grounds. The corn was in tassel, but the wilting of its blades, indicated, that they had been touched by a slight frost. Its effects were particularly apparent in some vines near one of the lodges. Although the lodges had been carefully closed, the chief said during his absence, a wolf had broken into his lodge and committed depredations. He observed, in speaking of game, that the red deer was found on the adjoining plains. In order to hunt the moose an animal formerly abundant in the region, he observed that it was necessary to go to one of the remote forks of the Burntwood or Brule River. He represented the population of his village at eighty-eight souls, of whom twenty-eight were men. His estimate was understood to include the minor chief Blackbird and his followers, who are sometimes referred to as a distinct band. We asked the chief, while sitting at the camp-fire in the evening, whether he did not feel tired, having observed that during the day, he had alone, with the aid only of his wife, poled up his canoe and managed to keep ahead, so as to guide, our canoe with seven men. He was evidently fatigued, but replied, smiling, no.

We parted with this chief, who has become respectable for his influence in this part of the country, at four o’clock on the next morning (August 2nd). We had now got above all the strong rapids, and attained very nearly the height of land. The river, above this point, receives the Clearwater [Eau Claire] and Buffalo [Ox] Rivers, as tributaries on the right bank. It is finally traced to Lake St. Croix, a handsome sheet of clear water, about six miles long. This lake has an island which is the site of a small village. Its head is perhaps ten or eleven leagues distant from the Namai Kowagon.
 

Chapter 3 of the journal goes on to describe the trip from Upper Lake St. Croix, down the Brule River to Lake Superior.  A link to this description can be found here

A link to Schoolcraft's illustrated description of a "northwest" (birch bark) canoe can be found here
 

Henry Schoolcraft image included on this website with written permission from the Digital Content Group, University of Wisconsin Libraries (Wisconsin Electronic Reader).

Text excerpt included on this website with written permission from Michigan State University Press.